I prefer a traditional-looking case with a modern skeleton movement
Every skeleton watch I see now has a futuristic, angular case with titanium and carbon fiber. I want a classic round case, think vintage Calatrava or a simple dress watch, but with an openworked movement inside. Does anyone make that? Or am I stuck choosing between a 1950s pocket watch conversion and a modern Hublot spaceship?
You just described half of Roger Dubuis's catalog from 10 years ago. Round cases, skeleton dials. Expensive though.
Have you looked at independent brands? Chronoswiss used to do skeletonized regulators in classic cases. Not cheap but not Hublot money either.
The new Frederique Constant Highlife skeleton is kind of a middle ground. Round case, integrated bracelet, but the movement is modern. Might be too sporty for you.
Also, vintage pocket watch conversions are a rabbit hole. You'll spend more on a decent case than the watch. Ask me how I know.
Traditional case + skeleton movement = you're basically asking for a dress watch that shows off its guts. That's a weird combo for most brands. They think skeleton = sporty.
What about an older Breguet Tradition? Round case, exposed movement. Not full skeleton but close. Prices have softened on the 7027.
I have a 1960s Jules Jürgensen skeleton in a plain gold round case. It exists but you have to hunt. And service costs will ruin your month.
Honestly the whole 'modern skeleton movement' thing is overrated. Most of them look like a bag of watch parts got stuk in a fan. Give me a clean openworked bridge any day.
That's a hot take. Modern CNC skeletonizing is way more precise than hand-fretted stuff from the 60s. You just don't like the angular bridges.
I don't like when the bridges look like a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle weapon, no. Round case with that inside is even weirder. Like a tuxedo with track pants.
Username check out. Also, OP, look at older Zenith Defy skeletons. The classic round ones from the 70s. Very of their time but definitely traditional case shape.
Actually, the best answer might be a custom project. Buy a sterile classic case and a modern skeleton movement from a supplier, then have a watchmaker assemble. Not for the faint of heart but you get exactly what you want.
That's a lot of work for a watch that will never be worth what you put into it. But if it's a keeper, why not.
The custom route is tempting but I know my limits. The Zenith Defy suggestion is interesting—I forgot those existed in round. I'll dig into Chronoswiss too. The 'tuxedo with track pants' comment is unfortunately accurate for a lot of what I'm seeing
Whatever you do, don't buy a no-name skeleton off AliExpress and put it in a Seiko case. I've seen that thread before and it never ends well.
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